How to Plan a Road Trip Along the Amalfi Coast: Routes and Stops

I will never forget the moment I realized what I had signed up for. I was behind the wheel of a rented Fiat 500, navigating a road carved into the side of a cliff, with a sheer rock face on one side and a 200-meter drop to the Tyrrhenian Sea on the other. A tour bus appeared around a blind curve, and I pressed myself against the rock wall while it scraped past with inches to spare. The Amalfi Coast road, the SS163, stretches 50 kilometers along the southern edge of the Sorrentine Peninsula, connecting Sorrento to Salerno through hairpin turns and cliffside villages. After two separate Amalfi Coast road trips, I have learned the hard way what works and what does not. This Italy coastal drive guide covers everything you need to know about driving Amalfi Coast roads safely.

Driving Safety Tips

The SS163 was built for horse carts in the 19th century and adapted reluctantly for modern vehicles. The road is consistently narrow — in many sections, two cars cannot pass without one pulling over. Guardrails are absent in some sections, and the drop-offs are serious. Rent the smallest car you can tolerate. A Fiat 500 or Fiat Panda is ideal. I rented a Fiat 500 from Hertz in Naples for 45 EUR per day — its tiny footprint was a genuine advantage. Do not rent an SUV or anything wider than a compact. Automatic transmission is worth paying extra for steep, winding roads.

Drive during daylight hours only. The road has minimal lighting, no shoulder, and no center line in many sections. Plan your driving for 9 AM to 4 PM. Use your horn on blind curves — this is standard practice and local drivers expect it. Always yield to uphill traffic.

Parking Challenges

Parking is the single biggest logistical challenge. Every town has limited parking, and during peak season (June-September), spaces fill up by 10 AM. Positano is the most difficult. The main lot (Parcheggio Comunale) charges 5 EUR per hour with a 25 EUR daily maximum. I arrived at 8:15 AM on a Tuesday in July and found one of the last spaces. Amalfi has more capacity at the underground Matteotti lot (2 EUR per hour, 15 EUR daily max). Ravello has the most available parking with several free and low-cost lots.

Positano Highlights and Stops

Positano is the most photogenic town on the Amalfi Coast. Pastel-colored houses cascade down the hillside, and the main beach, Spiaggia Grande, is lined with umbrellas and restaurants. A full day at a beach club costs 25-40 EUR per person. The best thing to do is simply walk. Start at the Chiesa di Santa Maria Assunta and walk down through the residential streets toward the beach. For food, avoid the beach restaurants and head up to La Sponda at Hotel Le Sirenuse for an unforgettable candlelit dinner, or Da Vincenzo on Via dei Mulini for excellent local dishes — the scialatielli ai frutti di mare costs 18 EUR and is outstanding.

Combining with Capri or Pompeii

Pompeii is about 45 minutes from Sorrento by the Circumvesuviana train. Entrance costs 18 EUR, and a guided two-hour tour costs about 55 EUR per person. Capri is accessible by ferry from Positano (35 minutes, 21 EUR one way). A chairlift ride to Monte Solaro costs 14 EUR round trip and offers panoramic views of the entire Gulf of Naples. I skipped the famous Blue Grotto and instead hiked the trail from Anacapri to the Faraglioni rocks, which took about 90 minutes and was far more rewarding.

The Amalfi Coast's food is as memorable as its scenery. The region is famous for its lemons, which are larger and more aromatic than any I have encountered elsewhere. Limoncello, the lemon liqueur produced locally, is served chilled as a digestif at virtually every restaurant. A bottle of artisanal limoncello from a local producer costs 12-18 EUR and makes an excellent souvenir. The region's seafood is outstanding. Scialatielli ai frutti di mare (fresh pasta with mixed seafood) is the signature dish, and every restaurant along the coast has their own version. I ate the best version at Lo Guarracino in Positano, a family-run restaurant perched on the hillside with a terrace overlooking the sea. The portion cost 16 EUR and the view was free.

Ravello, perched 350 meters above the coast, is the quietest and most refined of the Amalfi Coast towns. The town has two famous gardens: Villa Rufolo, with its Norman-Arab architecture and cliff-edge terraces (admission 7 EUR), and Villa Cimbrone, with its famous "Terrace of Infinity" that offers a panoramic view of the entire coastline (admission 10 EUR). Both gardens are spectacular and far less crowded than anything at sea level. I spent a peaceful morning at Villa Cimbrone reading a book on a stone bench overlooking the Mediterranean, and it was one of the most relaxing hours of my entire trip to Italy.

Essential Tips to Keep in Mind

• Drive from Sorrento to Salerno (west to east). Driving on the seaward side gives you better visibility on curves and easier access to scenic viewpoints.
• Fill your gas tank in Sorrento or Salerno. Gas stations along the SS163 are rare and expensive — I paid 2.10 EUR per liter in Praiano versus 1.85 EUR in Sorrento.
• Take the ferry between towns instead of driving the entire coast. A one-way ferry from Positano to Amalfi costs 16 EUR and takes 20 minutes versus 45 minutes driving plus 15 EUR parking.
• Visit in May, June, or September for the best balance of weather, crowds, and prices. July and August temperatures exceed 35 degrees Celsius and the roads are gridlocked.
• Stay overnight in at least one town. The Amalfi Coast is not a day-trip destination. Two or three nights lets you experience the coast at a slower pace.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need an International Driving Permit for the Amalfi Coast?

Yes, if your license is not from the EU. An International Driving Permit is required by Italian law for non-EU drivers. Get one from your local automobile association before departure.

Is the Amalfi Coast drive safe for nervous drivers?

If you are an experienced driver who is simply nervous about the conditions, you will be fine — take it slow and use the pullouts. If you are genuinely anxious, consider the SITA bus or ferries between towns.

How many days do I need for the Amalfi Coast?

Three days is the minimum — one day for Positano, one for Amalfi and Ravello, and one for a side trip to Capri or Pompeii. Five days lets you explore at a relaxed pace.

Final Thoughts

Driving the Amalfi Coast oscillates between terror and exhilaration, sometimes within the same minute. The road is genuinely challenging, the parking is frustrating, and the summer crowds are overwhelming. But the scenery is unlike anywhere else in the Mediterranean. The key is to slow down, accept that the drive will take longer than you think, and build in time for spontaneous stops. The Amalfi Coast rewards the patient traveler.